Day 15. Girona to Barcelona

Sheep heads for sale

Based on Chloe's recommendation we made a visit to the markets. Lots of produce, including these sheep heads and lots of seafood, but nowhere attractive to get a coffee, so after a quick explore we headed off.


We checked out of the apartment and got the cashier to call a taxi for us. The taxi to the station was a bit of a circus: muttering about the amount of luggage, running into a concrete bollard at low speed, going the wrong way down some streets,  a near miss with another vehicle but we made it!

By comparison the train trip to Barcelona was uneventful: we had missed the MD train but there was enough room for us to sit with all of our luggage. Barcelona Sants isn't too bad with luggage and we were soon out of the station. Catching a cab was easy.

We checked in at the hotel... the rooms were less than perfect but OK. Ours fronted onto what is risibly termed a light well so the electic light was needed most of the time.  The rooms were fairly quiet except for bathroom noise in ours and street noise for K&J. We had a late tapas lunch around the corner which was pretty good.

I made a solo trip out to Camp Nou, primarily to get tickets for K&J. I also bought a new #8 shirt and scarf. This all turned out fine, and it gave me a chance to check out the metro route. C&K&J took the explorer bus so that they could check out the layout of Barcelona and decide what to go back to on subsequent days.

For dinner we tried to go to a recommendation from Trip Advisor, but they were fully booked, so we ended up with cheap and cheerful paella at a cafe in between.

Day 14. In Girona

The original plan had an optional trip to the coast and back today, however nobody took up the option! Fair enough too, there was plenty to see and do in Girona!

More stairs : everywhere you turn in the old city

We went down to the B12 restaurant and bar on Placa del Vi for breakfast.  The breakfast was fairly standard but I noticed that they had a very good range of organic and artisan local beers so I had a lovely dark ale to finish the meal off.  Some of our group were incredulous, others knew me better :-)

View from the walls

Next task was the laundry, so off to Chloe's place... she was full of hospitality and was really generous with her time and washing machine. She recommended the walk along the city wall so that was next on the agenda.

It took us a little while to find the stairs up to the top and there were plenty of them, but it was worth the effort. The city walls give great views over Girona and the surrounding area. We walked the entire length of the reconstructed wall from down near the river up to behind the cathedral, where it ends in some lovely gardens.

Cathedral main entrance

We then headed down to the river and had lunch at Konig, which had a good range of lunch options and good beer! After that we went our various ways, Christine and Julie back to the apartment and Keith and I wandering around. I found a gelato shop and indulged myself, then headed up the hill to visit the museum and the cathedral.

The museum was primarily religious art. Some of it was interesting, but nothing really stands out. In general I am not a fan of Spanish art until we get to the moderns (Picasso, Dali, Miro etc.)

NO photos of the interior of the cathedral. Why do some ban photography and others (Ripoll, Barcelona, Valencia etc.) don't? The Cathedral has interesting internal structure, a result of the multiple expansions over the centuries. The wide single nave is very impressive.



We all ended up back at the apartment (the clean laundry collected already) and then headed down the hill for a drink with Chloe. We met up at the bike shop and went to the River Cafe (across the plaza from Konig) for a glass of wine and a chat.

Chloe recommended a restaurant for dinner and we said goodbye as she was off to the English language cinema (a treat for her). She also recommended a visit to the local markets which we decided to do in the morning.

Dinner at El Cau del Llop was really good. It was hard to find, but we ended up still being fairly early for dinner which was great because it really filled up. Six of us for dinner, good food and wine with a very comfortable feel.

El Cau del Llop

Day 13. Olot to Girona

This day's ride turned out to be more difficult in reality than it did on paper. The reason was the rain of the previous night made the sandy surface fairly soft, requiring more effort for pedalling.

Cool and lush

We awoke to clearing showers although it remained cool and cloudy for most of the day. We had breakfast at the hotel and then set off on the road until we could link up with the via verde. There was an American couple also riding the via verde who had arrived after me at Can Blanc. They set off first but in a "hare and tortise" effort we met them again a few times because of their inferior navigation. We used the footpath alongside a fairly busy road for a while, then turned down a quiet country lane. Almost immediately we were passed by a bunch of roadies out for a morning spin and I had to resist the temptation to sit on... oh well.

Onto the via verde which zigzagged through some small residential areas, almost certainly not the original rail route. Finally after a short sharp climb we were on the rail trail proper and the slow climb of a few kilometers to the saddle between one river valley and the next. This route passed through cuttings mostly, with glimpses of the rich farmland below.

A rolling Ortlieb advertisement

We regrouped at the top of Col de Bas and then it was downhill and flat thereafter. The secenery was lovely, a mix of farms and forest, but there was light drizzle and it was cool riding. We stopped at Sant Feliu de Pallerols for a warming cup of coffee and then continued. The cool weather and the heavy surface were taking a toll on strength and enthusiasm and it was fairly regular short stops thereafter.

The impressive entrance into Angles

At Salt the via verde transformed into various in-town cycle routes and we more or less followed our nose, riding on the road until we were back at the Girona Cycle Centre. It is hard to get lost with the Cathedral standing on the hill above the old city anyway.

We had some reviving beverages and returned the bikes. We bumped into Chloe Hosking again. Julie asked here if she knew where there was a laundromat and she said no, but then volunteered her washing machine in an act of real generosity! Having handed over the bikes it was up the hill to the apartment, this time of course without having to lug the bags up the stairs! We got cleaned up and walked back down the hill for a drink and then dinner.

The eight travellers all dined together: this was the last night where we would all be in the same place at the same time, so we enjoyed dinner at Artusi and said our thanks and farewells. The food was good although the portion size a little unpredictable: some wanted a light dish and got a mountain, others vice versa... it certainly didn't depend on price.

Day 12. Ripoll to Olot

Wow what different riding compared to Los Ojos Negros!

Decrepit, but with a solar panel on the roof

Cow with bell

We breakfasted at the hotel and set out under coolish partly sunny skies. The first part of the ride was from Ripoll to Sant Joan de les Abadesses, about ten kilometers of slightly uphill riding through mostly farmland.

We saw donkeys, cattle and sheep and saw lots of farm workers and other users of the path, mostly on foot. This alpine region looks like parts of northern Italy or even Switzerland.



The surface was quite different to Los Ojos Negros also. For large sections it was sandy and not bound together. So a smooth ride but more rolling resistance than we had experienced down south.

At  Sant Joan de les Abadesses the route moves off the rail trail (which continues on for another ten kilometers). We initially had to do some casting about to find the route down to the centre of town, over the quaint angular footbridge and then along the main street for one hundred metres or so to the turnoff. There we stopped at a bar for coffees and to use los servicios before tacking the next segment.

Footbridge on the route in Olot

A local dianthus on the side of the road

This segment is a quiet secondary road that winds up and up to the pass at Col de Santigosa. As we climbed higher we rode into the cloud so it was quite cool and pleasant for climbing. Even when you couldn't see far the sound of clanking bells on the sheep and cattle told you that farms were just off the edge of the road.

Along the way I stopped to snack on red currants and blackberries. The blackberries were not as good as the ones down south. We saw a couple of other cyclists and only very few cars on this road. None of the climb was steep but it didn't let up so most were glad for a break at the pass.

As experienced by some

As it actually is

Then it was downhill on slightly slippery road still in the cloud. You wouldn't call it rain but we still got wet. At a fork in the road we regrouped and had to remove Christine's chain guard which was preventing the front derailleur from moving onto the big ring. So the demon descender didn't get to set any new speed records :-(

The road kept on dropping and there was a lovely fast section almost into Olot. We managed to make the correct turn and joined the dedicated cycle route though town, although we soon left it to continue down the main street to find some lunch. This ended up surprisingly well! We found a nice looking restaurant, run by an Indian family that served mostly Spanish food. The menu del dia was fabulous, with many lovely choices. For first course I chose the potato blinis which were stuffed with a slice of morcella. Sensational! I think all eight of us were happy with the outcome. There was one token Indian dish on the menu (a chicken curry) but we talked to the waiter who was quite happy to be using English and he said they tone it down a lot for Spanish tastes.

We then rode out through town to Hotel Can Blanc which was down a quiet road with a very agritourismo feel, including a large restaurant, La Deu with nice grounds next door, which we used for dinner. This must be a popular destination for Barcelona residents to go for weekends. We checked in, and after the usual cyclist preoccupations (showers, washing and beer) we spend a relaxing afternoon. There were a couple of light showers in the afternoon and while we were having dinner it rained quite heavily, but luckily it let up for us to get back to the hotel about 200m away.

Day 11. Girona to Ripoll

Another coffee maybe?

 Everything went will in Girona for our departure. The cathedral bells gave us a wakeup call at 6 and then again at 7 :-)

We had breakfast at a restaurant on Plaça de la Independència overlooking the river. Then back to the apartment to pack and check out. I was very happy when the proprietor offered that we could leave our bags in the apartment for the  two nights that we would be away, which significantly reduced our effort! Then down to the bike shop to pick up the bikes and depart for Ripoll.

Everything went well there, and we were soon on our way in a van with the bikes in the back. Fitting our pedals, my seat, getting the heights right and so on was quickly done. This was despite a steady stream of customers of many were Australian! Dave told me that they had 100% of their rental bikes committed so things were busy.

The narrow streets of the old city were a bit of a challenge in the large van but we made it eventually and were out on divided roads for most of the way. The country became more lush and mountainous the further we went. I was sitting in the front with the talkative driver who spoke no English so my Spanish comprehension got a workout for an hour or so!

We discussed the scenery, other drivers, the volcanoes that we drove past, the various routes available and much more. As we came through the edge of Olot he told me where our hotel was.

Plaça de Sant Eudald

In Ripoll we quickly found Hotel La Trobada and settled in. Once again they were well prepared for us and our bikes. The hotel is only about 200m from the via verde so they probably get lots of cyclists.

We strolled across town looking for some lunch (barely adequate) in Plaza del Ayuntamento and then took in the sights of the town including the picturesque buildings in Plaça de Sant Eudald and elsewhere.

Cloister at Santa Maria

Christine went back to the hotel and Keith, Julie and I visited the monastery of Santa Maria's church and cloister. Ripoll had been the location of an important scriptorium in the 12th century.

Later Jeff and Gerda, Peter and Sandy arrived having taken slow trains from Valencia. We all went out to dinner at La Piazzetta which as the name would indicate serves pizza (along with other dishes). The pizza flavours were unusual and interesting and the wine was good!

Day 10. Valencia to Girona

We had a fairly relaxed schedule, with the train not due to depart until 1pm. So we had a relaxed breakfast with the others, strolled around and then checked out and took the short walk to the station.

The train to Girona was uneventful. These medium-fast trains (around 200kph) are not pressure sealed and they generate quite a bow wave in tunnels so that our ears were popping at each one. The service was good, and Keith and I headed off to the cafeteria car to get lunch for us all.

The train made only a few stops and Keith and Julie got to see this section of the Med coast for the first time. From Barcelona onwards the landscape got more hilly and a lot greener. A stark contrast to what we had been riding through inland of Valencia.

The other obvious difference is in terms of population density. No wide open vistas here... lots of towns and villages with small agricultural lots and plenty of industry.

This complex set of supports is required because one building has been
demolished and supports are needed to hold up the neighbouring ones.

When we got to Girona it was straightforward: into a big enough taxi and up the hill to Hotel Historic to sign in and be shown the way to our apartments (about 50m away) at Casa Cundaro. The old town of Girona is definitely hilly, so I am glad that we didn't even contemplate walking from the station! At the apartment there were a couple of flights of stairs but after a few trips we had all the luggage up and unpacked.

The apartment was quite comfortable. That is until the cathedral bells started almost overhead at 6am :-) Actually I didn't mind. It is a pleasant sound and I am already awake at that time.

A beer in La Rambla, which is lined with bars and restaurants

A classic Girona view in the evening

After dealing with arrival and unpacking we headed down the hill to explore. Lots of typical narrow, twisty streets, but here many of them have stairs. It reminds me somewhat of Cortona. The town is very photogenic, especially the buildings and bridges along the Onyar river, with the cathedral towering overhead. Everywhere we went there were lots of sightseers, camera at the ready but it was nver crowded unlike Barcelona!

 I made a quick visit to Girona Cycle Centre to confirm arrangements for the next day. There we met Dave and Saskia and bumped into Chloe Hosking, ex Canberra cyclist. All seemed in readiness so we agreed to return in the morning for fitting etc.

Plaça de la Independència

We had dinner of tapas at one of the many restaurants that surround Plaça de la Independència on the other side of the river. It was a comfortably warm night, quite suitable for eating outdoors and listening to the buskers - of varying quality who went from one group of tables to the next.

Then the stroll back over the bridge and back up the hill to the apartment to finish the day.

Lots of people out in the street, enjoying a drink
or just socialising.

The entrance to our apartment

Day 9. Segorbe to Valencia

As we had previously planned, Christine and Julie set off to the station to catch the train down to Valencia with the dead bike. However bike problems were not yet over... the rear tyre on my bike was a little flat. This was with a new tube, having carefully checked the tyre for shap objects etc. the previous eveing. Not too bad, but down a little. So I rolled down the hill to the service station to fill it. Bad news. It was now going flat instantly. We had no spare tubes, so I sent Keith on his way and started the walk down town to the bike shops. More bad news, one not opening and the other not open :-( So I rolled around to the train station to discover that it was a LONG wait for the next train. Pretty pissed off I called a taxi and took it all the way to Valencia Nord. This was amusing as the drive spoke no English, so we conversed via my bad Spanish. Turns out that she is a supporter of Los Che so we talked football.

Meanwhile Keith successfully found the route to the Les Valls railway station (past the end of the via verde) and caught the train in from there. The rest followed along on more or less the same route :-) Actually as I walked to the bike shops I passed a signpost with the shortest and best route back onto the via verde but by then it was too late to be of assistance to the others who chose various longer ways to get out of town.

Julie and Christine had waited for me at Valencia Nord, so the three of us rolled our laden bikes around to Orange Bikes. I explained to the guy there that I wasn't happy with the bikes and tried to explain why. No, he wasn't going to listen. No, he wasn't going to say "how unfortunate, I'm sorry it didn't turn out well". It was all about how it was our fault and I didn't know what I was talking about. It was all about charging us full retail for the broken parts. It was all about "as soon as you leave the shop with the bike it is your problem". So it is now my mission to explain to others via the internet how shoddy the service was. This poor service was brought into stark contrast by the excellent service that we were to get two days later in Girona.

From the bike shop, still pissed off, to the hotel, the Sorolla Centro. This hotel is in a great location, a short block from the station and in an area surrounded by restaurants and cafes. We checked in, showered and washed, and then the three of us went downstairs to a restaurant for lunch and to wait for Keith. He had also been around to the bike shop and was no happier than I was! Anyway enough of that, on with enjoying Valencia...

Valencia

The ride in by taxi had shown me some more of the lovely vistas of large buildings that are a hallmark of the city. That and the Turia Gardens make Valencia a very attractive city. Although Valencia is a very busy port, perhaps the biggest container port on the Med, the old city is a fair way from the coast and the industrial elements don't intrude. However they do provide the economic activity that is needed for a large city. So in the afternoon we did some more walking and sightseeing and looked forward to our dinner booking at Restaurante Riff.

This was the second Michelin starred restaurant that we were to visit in Valencia and I had high hopes. It was only a short walk to the restaurant and after a bit of effort (it isn't well signposted and doesn't look like a restaurant) we found it. It is a bit strange in that you ring a door bell and wait for a staff member to come and escort you down a corridor to the restaurant. My high hopes were somewhat met. The good? The chef is very friendly and spends a lot of time talking to customers. The decor is subdued and tasteful. The menu is short but with good coverage of meats, fish and vegetables. The staff are well trained. Last but not least the food is adventurous and very tasty. The bad? I'm sorry but it wasn't relaxing at all. We had chosen to have wines matched by the chef for each course. This meant a complete change of cutlery, plates and glassware for each small course so it seemed that there was always someone buzzing around the table. As a culinary adventure it was great, but as a meal it wasn't so good. Waiting on some food photos from Keith :-)